Question

Why did my seeds fail to germinate?

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Answer

Almost always one of five things, and the order below is roughly how often each is the culprit.

Temperature. This is the most common cause and the least visible. Every species has a soil temperature range in which it will germinate, and below it seeds simply wait — or rot. Tomatoes and peppers want around 20–25°C; lettuce refuses above about 25°C and germinates happily at 10–15°C. A cold windowsill in March is below the threshold for most summer crops, and a heated propagator or a warm airing cupboard solves it outright.

Moisture, in either direction. Seeds need consistent moisture. Allowed to dry out once after imbibing water, most will die. Kept saturated, they rot or fall to damping-off, a fungal collapse at soil level. The target is damp, not wet — covering trays retains humidity but must be removed once seedlings appear.

Sowing depth. A reliable rule is to sow at roughly twice the seed's diameter. Fine seed sown too deep exhausts its reserves before reaching light. Some seeds — lettuce, poppies, foxgloves, snapdragons — need light to germinate and must be pressed onto the surface, not covered at all. The packet says which.

Seed age and viability. Germination rates fall with time, sharply for some species. Parsnip seed is notoriously short-lived and should be bought fresh each year; tomato seed can last five years or more.

Compost. Ordinary potting compost is too coarse and too rich for small seed. Seed compost is finer and lower in nutrients, which is what young roots want.

A few species need specific treatment — scarification, or a cold period called stratification — and will never germinate without it.

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