Why do some seeds need a cold period before they germinate?
Because they have a built-in dormancy mechanism that prevents germination until the seed has experienced winter — an adaptation that stops seedlings emerging at the wrong time of year and being killed.
The process is called stratification. A seed shed in autumn faces a lethal risk: germinate immediately and the seedling meets winter with no reserves. Species have therefore evolved a requirement for a prolonged period of cold, moist conditions before germination is possible. Experiencing that period is chemical proof that winter has passed and spring is arriving.
The mechanism involves a shift in the balance of plant hormones — a gradual decline in abscisic acid, which enforces dormancy, and an increase in sensitivity to gibberellins, which promote germination. Cold and moisture together drive this; cold alone, in a dry seed packet, achieves nothing. This is why putting dry seed in the freezer does not work.
Which plants need it: many trees and shrubs including apple, hawthorn, rowan and acer; herbaceous perennials such as delphinium, aquilegia, primula and lavender; and many alpines and native wildflowers. Seed packets usually say.
How to do it. Mix the seed with barely damp vermiculite, sand or compost, seal in a bag or container, and refrigerate at around 1–5°C. Duration varies by species, commonly four to twelve weeks. Check occasionally for mould, and watch for seeds beginning to sprout in the fridge, at which point they should be sown immediately.
The alternative is autumn sowing outdoors, letting nature supply the cold naturally — often simpler and more reliable.
Other dormancy types exist. Scarification breaks or abrades a hard seed coat that water cannot penetrate — sweet peas and many legumes benefit from nicking or soaking. Some seeds need light, some need smoke, and a few require warm stratification followed by cold.