Question

Why is my lavender dying?

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Answer

Nearly always too much water, too rich a soil, or the wrong pruning — and often all three. Lavender is a Mediterranean plant, and most of the ways people look after it are actively harmful.

Drainage is the biggest killer. Lavender evolved on poor, stony, free-draining hillsides. In heavy or clay soil, and especially through a wet winter, the roots sit in water and rot. Plants often survive summer and die between November and March. The fix is drainage rather than watering less: plant on a slight mound, work in grit generously, or grow in a pot with a gritty mix and plenty of drainage.

Rich soil and feeding produce soft, leafy growth that flowers poorly and does not survive winter well. Lavender does not want compost dug in and does not want fertiliser. Poor soil produces the compact, aromatic, long-lived plant.

Pruning at the wrong point, or not at all. Lavender does not reliably regenerate from old wood. Cut back into the bare woody base and that section usually never regrows. The rule is to trim after flowering, taking off the spent stems and about 2–3cm of the current season's green growth, always leaving green shoots below the cut. Done every year from planting, the plant stays compact. Left unpruned for several years, it becomes woody and sprawling, and cannot be renovated — the answer at that point is replacement.

Overcrowding causes fungal problems; lavender wants air movement around it.

English lavender is considerably hardier than French or Spanish types, which is worth knowing before buying for a cold garden.

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