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What is umami?

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Umami is the fifth basic taste, alongside sweet, sour, salty and bitter. It is the savoury, mouth-filling quality of parmesan, soy sauce, anchovies, mushrooms, ripe tomatoes and cured meat.

It was identified in 1908 by the Japanese chemist Kikunae Ikeda, who isolated glutamate from kombu seaweed and named the taste umami, roughly "pleasant savoury taste". Western science was slow to accept it as a distinct basic taste rather than a combination of the other four. That changed in 2000, when specific glutamate receptors were identified on the tongue, confirming a dedicated detection mechanism.

The compounds responsible are glutamate — an amino acid — and two nucleotides, inosinate and guanylate. Glutamate occurs naturally in tomatoes, cheese, seaweed, soy and human breast milk. Inosinate is abundant in meat and fish, particularly dried bonito. Guanylate is concentrated in dried mushrooms.

The interesting part is that these compounds are strongly synergistic: combining glutamate with either nucleotide produces a savoury intensity far greater than the sum of the parts, by a factor of several times. This is why classic flavour bases across unrelated cuisines pair them — Japanese dashi combines kombu with bonito flakes, Italian cooking pairs parmesan with tomato, and a simple stock combines meat with vegetables.

MSG is simply glutamate in salt form, offering the taste without the other flavours of its source ingredient. Concerns about it stem largely from a 1968 anecdotal letter; extensive subsequent research has not supported a general adverse effect.

Ageing, fermenting, drying and slow-cooking all increase umami by breaking proteins down into free amino acids.

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