What does acid actually do in cooking?
Far more than make things taste sour. Acid performs several distinct chemical jobs, which is why a squeeze of lemon improves dishes that taste nothing of lemon.
Balancing flavour. Acidity cuts through fat and richness, providing contrast that prevents a dish tasting heavy or flat. This is why rich braises finish with vinegar, why fried food comes with lemon, and why a dish that tastes "like something is missing" — but not salt — usually needs acid. It is the most common deficiency in home cooking after under-seasoning.
Denaturing proteins. Acid unwinds protein structures, which is what "cooking" does with heat. In ceviche, citrus juice denatures fish proteins so they become opaque and firm — chemically similar to heat cooking, though it does not kill pathogens the way heat does, which matters for food safety.
Tenderising, up to a point. Acid weakens some connective structures, which is why marinades contain it. But prolonged exposure makes meat mushy rather than tender, as the surface proteins break down excessively — which is why long acidic marinades are counterproductive.
Controlling browning. Lemon juice on cut apples slows enzymatic browning by lowering pH and inhibiting the enzyme responsible. Acid also slows the Maillard reaction, which is why acidic marinades can hinder browning — while alkaline conditions accelerate it, which is why pretzels are dipped in lye and why a pinch of bicarbonate helps onions caramelise faster.
Curdling dairy deliberately — the basis of cheese, paneer and buttermilk — and accidentally, which is why acidic ingredients are added to cream sauces carefully and off the heat.
Reacting with raising agents. Bicarbonate of soda needs acid to produce carbon dioxide, which is why recipes using it include buttermilk, yoghurt, lemon, vinegar or brown sugar. Baking powder already contains its own acid, which is the whole difference between them.
Setting pectin in jam, alongside sugar — why lemon juice appears in recipes for low-acid fruit.
Preserving, by lowering pH below what most spoilage organisms tolerate — the principle of pickling.
Choosing which: vinegars, citrus, wine, tomatoes, yoghurt, tamarind and fermented products each bring different flavours alongside the acidity.