Question

What is the difference between jam, jelly and marmalade?

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Answer

All three are fruit preserved with sugar. The difference is which part of the fruit ends up in the jar.

Jam is made from crushed or chopped whole fruit cooked with sugar. It contains pulp and often seeds, and sets to a soft, spreadable mass rather than a firm one.

Jelly is made from fruit juice only. The fruit is cooked and the liquid strained — traditionally through a jelly bag, without squeezing, which would cloud it. The result is clear, firm and holds its shape when turned out. Redcurrant and crab apple jelly are typical.

Marmalade is made from citrus, and characteristically includes the peel suspended in a clear set jelly. Seville oranges are the traditional choice because they are high in both pectin and acid, and too bitter to eat raw. The bitterness that makes them useless as fruit is exactly what makes the preserve work.

Two related terms: conserve usually means a jam with whole or large pieces of fruit, sometimes with nuts. Fruit curd — lemon curd being the common one — is a different thing entirely, thickened with egg and butter rather than set with pectin, and it does not keep like a preserve.

What makes any of them set is pectin, a carbohydrate in fruit cell walls, which forms a gel in the presence of sugar and acid. The three have to be in balance: too little pectin or acid and it stays syrupy.

That is why recipes add lemon juice, and why high-pectin fruits like citrus, apples and currants set easily while strawberries and cherries need help.

Underripe fruit contains more pectin than ripe.

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