What is the difference between gelatine, pectin and agar?
Three setting agents from completely different sources, setting at different temperatures, with different textures — and they are not interchangeable in a recipe.
Gelatine. A protein derived from animal collagen — usually pig or cattle hide and bone.
Sets on cooling, around 15°C, and melts at body temperature, which is why gelatine desserts dissolve in the mouth. That melt is the defining characteristic and is difficult to replicate.
Sold as leaves or powder, graded by setting strength in bloom. Must be softened in cold water first, then dissolved in warm — never boiled, which weakens it.
What defeats it: raw pineapple, kiwi, papaya, figs and fresh ginger contain protease enzymes that digest the protein and prevent setting. Cooking the fruit destroys the enzymes, which is why tinned pineapple works and fresh does not.
Not vegetarian.
Pectin. A plant polysaccharide found in fruit cell walls, concentrated in apples, citrus peel and quince.
Requires sugar and acid to set, in fairly specific proportions — which is the whole basis of jam-making, and why recipes for low-acid fruit add lemon juice, and why reducing the sugar in a jam recipe stops it setting.
Low-methoxyl pectin sets with calcium instead, which is what low-sugar jam products use.
Sets to a spreadable, slightly elastic texture. Vegetarian and vegan.
Agar (agar-agar). A polysaccharide from red seaweed.
Must be boiled to activate — simply dissolving is not enough, which is the most common failure.
Sets much more firmly than gelatine, at a much higher temperature — it sets at around 35–40°C and does not melt until roughly 85°C. So an agar jelly is stable at room temperature and on a warm day, which gelatine is not.
Texture is firm and brittle rather than wobbly, and it does not melt in the mouth — which is why substituting it directly into a panna cotta gives a disappointing result.
Vegan, and used considerably less than gelatine by weight.
Others: carrageenan, also from seaweed; cornflour and arrowroot, which thicken rather than set; and egg, which sets by coagulation.