What is a fire door, and where are they actually required?
A door assembly tested to resist fire and smoke for a specified period — commonly 30 minutes (FD30) or 60 minutes (FD60) — whose purpose is to protect the escape route long enough for people to get out.
The critical point: it is an assembly, not a door. The rating applies to the door leaf, frame, hinges, intumescent strips, smoke seals, closer and glazing as a tested combination. Changing any component, or fitting it incorrectly, can invalidate the performance entirely — a fire door propped open, or fitted with a gap that is too large, provides almost nothing.
Where they are typically required in a home:
Loft conversions. Creating a third storey requires a protected stairway, which generally means fire doors to every room opening onto it. This is the most common domestic trigger, and it surprises people planning a conversion.
An integral garage opening into the house.
Habitable rooms opening onto a stairway in houses of three or more storeys.
Flats, both the entrance door and internal doors to the escape route, with the entrance door usually requiring FD30S with smoke seals and a self-closer.
Houses in multiple occupation, where requirements are stricter and enforced.
What makes a fire door work:
Intumescent strips which expand when heated, sealing the gap.
Smoke seals, indicated by the S suffix, which matter enormously — smoke kills far more people than flame.
The correct gap, typically around 3 mm, and a threshold gap within tolerance.
A self-closer where required, since a door only works closed.
Correct hinges and intumescent hinge pads.
What invalidates one: cutting it down, fitting a cat flap or letterbox, non-rated glazing, wedging it open, painting over the strips, and using ordinary screws or hinges.
How to identify one: a certification label or plug on the top or hinge edge. Weight is not a reliable indicator.
Inspection matters, particularly in flats. General information, not legal advice.