How does roaming work when you land abroad?
Your phone attaches to a foreign network that has an agreement with your own, and your home network continues to authenticate you and to control what you can do — which is why your number, your voicemail and your services follow you.
What happens on landing. The phone scans for available networks and selects one according to a preference list stored on the SIM. It presents your identity, and the visited network asks your home network to verify it and confirm you are permitted to roam. Once authorised, you are registered on the visited network while your home network records where you are.
Why calls still reach you. An incoming call routes to your home network first, which knows your current location and forwards it onward — which is why calls made to you while abroad can be charged to you for that second leg in some tariffs, a long-standing source of surprise bills.
How charging works. The visited network bills your home operator a wholesale rate, and your operator bills you. In some regions wholesale rates are capped by regulation and retail roaming charges have been abolished or limited within a bloc, which is why roaming can be free in one direction of travel and expensive in another.
Why "fair use" limits exist. Where roaming is included, operators apply policies to prevent permanent roaming — using a foreign SIM in your home country indefinitely — since wholesale costs would exceed the tariff.
What to check before travelling: whether roaming is included or charged; the daily cap or bundle; whether the destination is in your included zone, since neighbouring countries frequently are not; and whether a data cap applies.
The specific traps: cruise ships and aircraft use satellite networks that are not covered by any roaming agreement and are extremely expensive; border areas where your phone attaches to a foreign mast while you are still at home; and background data from apps updating silently.
The alternatives: a local SIM, an eSIM data plan bought before travel, or simply relying on Wi-Fi with calling over the internet.