Question

Why should pasta water be salted?

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Answer

Because it is the only opportunity to season the pasta itself rather than just what goes on top of it. Salt added to the sauce sits on the surface; salt in the cooking water is absorbed into the pasta as it hydrates.

Pasta swells as it cooks, taking up water. If that water is seasoned, the salt goes in with it and the pasta tastes of something on its own. Cook it in plain water and no amount of sauce fully compensates — the result is a dish where the sauce tastes seasoned and the pasta underneath tastes of nothing.

How much is the contested part. The traditional Italian instruction is water "as salty as the sea", which is around 35g per litre and strikes most people as extreme. A practical range is 7 to 10g per litre, roughly a heaped teaspoon, which seasons noticeably without being overwhelming. Most of it stays in the water and goes down the drain.

Two related claims are worth correcting.

Salt does not make water boil faster. It raises the boiling point very slightly — a fraction of a degree at cooking quantities — which if anything makes it marginally slower. The effect is far too small to notice.

Oil in the water does not stop pasta sticking. It floats on the surface, and any that coats the pasta afterwards makes sauce slide off rather than cling. Stirring in the first minute is what prevents sticking.

Salt the water once it is boiling, not before — salt can pit some stainless steel pans if it sits undissolved on the base.

Save a cup of the starchy water before draining; it is the standard tool for loosening and emulsifying a sauce.

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