Question

Why do some cheeses smell so strong?

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Answer

Because the microbes used to ripen them produce sulphur and ammonia compounds, and several of those compounds are chemically identical to ones the human nose evolved to treat as warnings.

The main sources:

Washed-rind cheeses — Époisses, Munster, Limburger, Taleggio, Stinking Bishop — are the strongest smelling. Their rinds are repeatedly washed in brine, beer, wine or spirits, which encourages Brevibacterium linens.

This is the notorious one. B. linens is closely related to the bacteria living on human skin, and it produces some of the same volatile compounds — which is why washed-rind cheese genuinely smells like feet. The resemblance is not coincidental or metaphorical; it is the same chemistry. Research has found that mosquitoes attracted to human foot odour are also attracted to Limburger.

Protein breakdown (proteolysis). As cheese ages, enzymes break proteins into amino acids and then into smaller compounds, including ammonia — which is why an overripe brie smells sharply of it — and sulphur-containing compounds from methionine and cysteine.

Fat breakdown (lipolysis) releases short-chain fatty acids: butyric acid, which smells of vomit; caproic and caprylic acids, which are goaty. These are prominent in blue and hard Italian cheeses.

Blue moulds (Penicillium roqueforti) produce methyl ketones, giving the distinctive blue pungency.

Why smell and taste diverge so sharply. Much of a strong cheese's aroma is perceived orthonasally — through the nose before eating — where it registers as alarming. In the mouth, retronasal perception combines it with taste, texture and fat, producing a very different and usually far milder experience. This is why the standard reassurance that a cheese tastes better than it smells is literally true.

Rind treatment matters more than age for surface odour.

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