Question

What is the difference between baking soda and baking powder?

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Answer

Baking soda is a single ingredient that needs an acid to work. Baking powder is baking soda with a dry acid already mixed in. Both release carbon dioxide to make baked goods rise, but they are used in different circumstances and are not interchangeable without adjustment.

Baking soda is sodium bicarbonate, a base. On its own in a batter it does nothing useful; it needs to meet an acid to produce gas. That is why recipes calling for baking soda almost always contain something acidic — buttermilk, yoghurt, soured cream, lemon juice, vinegar, molasses, brown sugar, honey or cocoa. The reaction starts immediately on mixing, so soda-leavened batters should go into the oven promptly.

Baking powder contains baking soda plus a powdered acid, usually cream of tartar or a phosphate, along with cornflour to keep them apart and dry. Adding liquid brings them together, so it works in recipes with no acidic ingredient. Most modern baking powder is double-acting: a first release of gas on mixing, and a second, larger one triggered by oven heat, which gives more margin for delay.

They affect more than rise. Baking soda raises the pH of a batter, which encourages browning and can produce a coarser, more open crumb. Too much leaves a soapy, metallic taste and can turn things yellowish. Baking powder is more neutral in flavour.

A rough substitution: baking powder is roughly a third as strong as baking soda, so one teaspoon of soda is replaced by about three teaspoons of powder — though the extra acid usually upsets the flavour.

Both lose potency over time. Test soda with vinegar, powder with hot water; both should fizz vigorously.

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