Question

What is gluten and what does it do?

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Answer

Gluten is not a single substance. It is a network formed when two proteins in wheat — glutenin and gliadin — meet water and are worked together. Neither does much alone; combined and hydrated, they form long elastic strands.

That network gives dough two properties that matter. Elasticity, from glutenin, is the tendency to spring back when stretched. Extensibility, from gliadin, is the ability to stretch without tearing. Bread needs both: enough elasticity to hold its shape, enough extensibility to expand as gas is produced.

In practice gluten is what lets baked goods hold gas bubbles. Yeast or a chemical raising agent produces carbon dioxide, the gluten sheets trap it, and oven heat sets the structure. It is the reason bread has an open crumb rather than being a solid brick.

Different flours contain different amounts. Strong or bread flour has high protein, around 12–14%, for chewy, well-risen loaves. Plain or all-purpose sits around 10–12%. Cake and pastry flours are lower, around 7–9%, deliberately — for a tender crumb you want less gluten, which is why overmixing a cake batter makes it tough and why pastry is handled as little as possible.

Gluten also occurs in barley and rye, in related forms.

For people with coeliac disease, an autoimmune condition, gluten causes damage to the small intestine and strict lifelong avoidance is medically necessary. Non-coeliac gluten sensitivity is a separate and less well-characterised condition. Anyone suspecting either should seek testing before removing gluten, since testing is unreliable once it has already been cut out.

Gluten-free baking substitutes structure with gums, starches and eggs.

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