What is emulsification, and why does mayonnaise split?
An emulsion is a stable mixture of two liquids that do not normally mix — oil and water — and it splits when the structure holding them together breaks down.
Why oil and water separate. Water molecules are polar and attract each other strongly. Oil is non-polar. Left alone, water molecules pull together and push oil out, which is why a dressing separates within seconds.
What an emulsion actually is. One liquid broken into tiny droplets suspended in the other. Mayonnaise is oil droplets dispersed in a small amount of water-based liquid — despite being mostly oil by volume, which surprises people.
The role of the emulsifier. A molecule with a water-loving end and an oil-loving end, which sits at the boundary of each droplet and stops droplets merging. In mayonnaise that is lecithin from egg yolk. Mustard also contributes, and is added in many recipes as much for this as for flavour.
Why mechanical work matters. Whisking breaks the oil into smaller droplets. Smaller droplets mean more surface area, more emulsifier at the interface, and a thicker, more stable result — which is why mayonnaise thickens as you beat it.
Why it splits:
Oil added too fast. The commonest cause. There must be enough emulsifier and enough agitation to coat each new droplet. Too much oil at once overwhelms the system, droplets merge, and it breaks.
Too much oil for the amount of yolk. There is a ceiling.
Cold ingredients, which make oil more viscous and harder to disperse.
Heat, which destabilises the emulsion and can curdle egg-based sauces.
How to rescue a split mayonnaise. Start again in a clean bowl with a fresh yolk, or a teaspoon of mustard or water, and whisk the broken mixture into it very slowly as though it were oil. This works reliably and is worth knowing.
Other emulsions in cooking: hollandaise and béarnaise, which also rely on yolk and split with heat; vinaigrette, a temporary emulsion that separates because it has little emulsifier; butter, a water-in-fat emulsion; and cream sauces, where starch and dairy proteins stabilise the mixture.