What is a rootstock and why does it matter for fruit trees?
A rootstock is the root system a fruit tree is grafted onto. The scion — the variety you actually want, such as a Cox or a Bramley — is joined to it, and the rootstock determines much of how the tree behaves.
Why fruit trees are grafted at all. Apple, pear, plum and cherry varieties do not come true from seed — plant a pip from a Cox and you get a random new variety, almost certainly worse. The only way to reproduce a named variety is vegetatively, by grafting a cutting onto roots.
What the rootstock controls:
Final size, which is the main reason gardeners need to understand it. The same variety on different rootstocks produces anything from a 1.5m container tree to a 6m orchard standard.
Time to first fruit. Dwarfing rootstocks crop far sooner — often two to three years, against six or more for vigorous ones.
Soil tolerance and disease resistance.
Anchorage. Dwarfing rootstocks have weak root systems and require permanent staking for the tree's whole life. This surprises people who remove the stake after a few years and lose the tree in a gale.
The common apple rootstocks, smallest to largest:
M27 — very dwarfing, around 1.5–2m. Containers and cordons. Needs excellent soil and permanent support.
M9 — dwarfing, 2–3m. The commercial orchard standard.
M26 — semi-dwarfing, 2.5–3.5m. A good garden choice.
MM106 — semi-vigorous, 3.5–5.5m. The most common garden rootstock, tolerant and reliable.
M25 — vigorous, 5m+. Traditional orchard trees.
Other fruits have their own systems — Quince A and C for pears, Pixy and St Julien A for plums, Gisela 5 and Colt for cherries.
Two practical points: the graft union — a visible bulge low on the trunk — must stay above soil level, or the scion roots and the dwarfing effect is lost. And suckers from below the union are rootstock growth and should be removed.