What do speaker specs like impedance, sensitivity and watts actually mean?
Three numbers that together determine how loud a speaker will play with a given amplifier — and the one most prominently advertised, wattage, is the least informative of the three.
Impedance, measured in ohms. How much the speaker resists the current the amplifier pushes into it. Common values are 4, 6 and 8 ohms.
Why it matters: a lower impedance draws more current, which is harder work for the amplifier. Connecting 4-ohm speakers to an amplifier rated only for 8 ohms can cause overheating and protection shutdowns. The published figure is also nominal — real impedance varies substantially with frequency, and a speaker's difficult-to-drive reputation usually comes from dips not visible in the specification.
Sensitivity, in decibels — typically quoted as dB at 1 watt measured at 1 metre. This is the number that actually predicts loudness, and it is logarithmic, which is why it matters so much:
An increase of 3 dB in sensitivity is equivalent to doubling amplifier power. A speaker rated 91 dB plays as loudly on 50 watts as an 88 dB speaker does on 100 watts. Chasing wattage instead of sensitivity is the most common mistake in matching equipment.
Power handling, in watts. How much power a speaker can take without damage, quoted as continuous (RMS) or peak — and peak figures are close to meaningless for comparison.
The counterintuitive part: more amplifier power than the speaker's rating is usually safer than too little, because an underpowered amplifier driven into clipping sends a distorted signal that damages tweeters. Most blown speakers are killed by too little power, not too much.
What else determines what you actually hear:
Frequency response, and whether the quoted range includes a tolerance figure — a range without one is marketing.
Room acoustics and placement, which affect the result more than any specification.
Distortion and dispersion, rarely published and genuinely important.